Models didn’t march on a catwalk but wandered through a walking path made of autumn leaves
Karl Lagerfeld has imagined an Indian summer for his fall / winter 2018 Ready- to Wear Collection and everything from the décor to the outfits reconstructed the image of a beautiful, enchanted forest. Models didn’t march on a catwalk but wandered through a walking path made of autumn leaves, reminding us that there’s so much beauty found in the melancholy of autumn. There’s splendor in the contrasting features of autumn and this was perfectly incorporated in the latest Chanel collection. Fragility vs. power and death vs. rebirth- these features transmit the incredible grace and authority of nature, and exactly like in the season so wonderfully outlined, Chanel too is perpetually reinventing itself.
In line with the décor, the colors selected by Karl Lagerfeld were typical for the season: brown, pine green, red and orange, while the details appreciated by the Chanel connoisseurs were once more reinterpreted. Buttons chiseled with leaves, branch- like braids and jewelry pieces interlaced with chains and beautiful beads.
Chanel’s new bag, named 31, made its debut in the collection. This large size shopper is the perfect accessory for the active woman who’s at the top of her style game. It is classic and yet modern, refined but with a special twist, and notably of exquisite quality, being made of smooth leather united with quilted leather, printed cotton canvas or tweed. The classics are also strongly represented. The 11.12 bag is decorated with rhinestone bark motifs and the Gabrielle bag comes in a mini version, contrasting the size of the 31 bag.
The quintessential Chanel fabric- the tweed is occasionally interchanged with knits, velvet and corduroy creating sophisticated, almost aristocratic garment pieces. The accessories were in line with today’s trends: tight boots in shades of gold, fingerless gloves and cozy scarves in vibrant colors.
A 80s inspired silhouette with square shoulders and high collars is softened by peplums and godets. The poncho-looking knits are a nod to the Argentine gauchos and the Latin American prairie, and the classic Chanel jacket is extended to mid- thigh, being paired with high boots in golden shades. Elongated skirts in pencil- cut have an almost architectural beauty to them due to their perfectly linear shape while the trousers are in clear contrast with their overstated volumes. This constant dissimilarity found in volumes and shapes is the core of the collection, where large coats and poncho looking capes are worn with tight boots.
The little black dress is once more reinterpreted by Mr. Lagerfeld. This time it takes various forms, embracing the fragility so typical for autumn in an embroidered tulle version or taking a more powerful form, almost grunge in black organza. The details in the collection are impeccable: elusive silver sequins pounded over velvet and lace fabrics, leather encrusted with lace, faux fur heightened with feathers, ruffles found in the most unexpected positions like at the elbows, and the Chanel style trademark- ribbons- adoring sheath dresses.
As expected, the show was attended by Chanel ambassadors: Keira Knightley, Vanessa Paradis, Alma Jodorowsky, Liu Wen, Lily Allen, and Clara Luciani.
Latin American Post | Adina Achim
Copy edited by Susana Cicchetto