AMERICAS

Colombia’s First Free Town in Americas Gains Long-Awaited Autonomy

As San Basilio de Palenque regains its autonomy, the town’s residents celebrate their African heritage and continue to fight to preserve their unique culture and language.

Overlooking the quiet town of San Basilio de Palenque in Colombia stands a statue of Benkos Bioho, a formerly enslaved person who became a symbol of resistance and liberation. Bioho, originally from modern-day Guinea Bissau, escaped the brutal conditions of slavery imposed by Spanish colonial rulers in the early 17th century. After breaking free, he led 30 fellow enslaved people in a daring escape from Cartagena in 1619, founding San Basilio de Palenque as a haven for those seeking freedom from bondage.

The town of San Basilio de Palenque, nestled in Colombia’s lush green hills, became the first free settlement for formerly enslaved people in the Americas. Under Bioho’s leadership, the town resisted numerous attempts by Spanish forces to re-capture its residents. Despite the Spanish Crown’s efforts to suppress the town’s growth, San Basilio thrived as an enclave of freedom and independence, even securing official recognition of its autonomy in 1691.

Benkos Bioho’s legacy is deeply embedded in the town’s identity, and his statue serves as a reminder of the community’s enduring spirit of resistance. “Africa is everything to me; it’s everything to us, Palenqueros,” Nuno Bembele, education adviser of the San Basilio de Palenque community council, told Al Jazeera, echoing the pride felt by many in the town. This pride in their African roots is not just historical—it is a living, breathing part of daily life in San Basilio.

A Struggle for Autonomy and Cultural Preservation

San Basilio de Palenque has a rich history of resistance, and this spirit of defiance has once again come to the forefront. On May 21, during national Afro-Colombian day, the Colombian Senate passed an amendment granting San Basilio de Palenque the status of a “special municipality,” officially recognizing its autonomy from the municipality of Mahates. This decision, which had been pursued by the town since 2013, represents a significant victory for the residents, who have long felt overlooked by the broader administrative body.

Despite having a population of only 4,200—far below the usual threshold of 25,000 required for such status—San Basilio’s cultural, historical, and ethnic significance led the Senate to make an exception. The town now has the right to elect its own mayor and establish an independent administrative body, marking a new chapter in its history.

Pedro Marquez, a local educator and native of San Basilio, expressed his excitement to Al Jazeera: “What is coming for Palenque is a dream. The municipality symbolises the struggle of Benkos, our independence, our autonomy. The children of Palenque can now take the reins of the destiny of San Basilio.” For Marquez and many others, this new status is more than just a political change—it is an opportunity to protect and promote the town’s unique cultural heritage.

The change in San Basilio’s status is also a reflection of Colombia’s current political climate. Under the leadership of left-wing President Gustavo Petro and Vice President Francia Marquez—the country’s first Black person to hold this title—there has been a renewed focus on supporting marginalized communities, including the Afro-Colombian population. “There is currently an important context as there’s a progressive government that has a clear agenda on racial and territorial issues,” Orlando Deavila, an assistant professor at the International Institute of Caribbean Studies of Cartagena University, told Al Jazeera.

Palenquero and The Fight to Save a Language

While San Basilio de Palenque celebrates its newfound autonomy, the town also faces ongoing challenges in preserving its cultural and linguistic heritage. Central to the town’s identity is the Palenquero language, a Creole tongue that developed in the mid-17th century. Rooted in African Bantu languages and Spanish, Palenquero is one of the most distinctive elements of the town’s culture.

Despite its significance, Palenquero is at risk of fading into obscurity. Government data from 2009 revealed that only 18 percent of the Palenquero population are fluent in their native tongue, with 32 percent neither speaking nor understanding it. The language is particularly endangered among younger generations, with only 21 percent of speakers under the age of 29.

In response to this threat, initiatives like the local rap collective Kombilesa Mi have emerged to revive and promote Palenquero. Formed in 2011 by San Basilio native Andris Padilla, known locally as Afro Neto, the group has used music as a platform to strengthen the town’s cultural identity and defend the Palenquero language. “Our fight is to protect the language so that Palenqueros can speak it, can teach it and to ensure it is not lost,” Padilla told Al Jazeera. “If the language is lost, we all lose. A people that loses its language, loses the greatest cultural wealth it has ever had.”

Kombilesa Mi’s efforts have not gone unnoticed. The group, which blends traditional rhythms with modern hip-hop to create a genre they call folkloric Palenquero rap, has gained recognition both in Colombia and internationally. The collective’s success is a source of pride for the community and a testament to the power of music in preserving cultural heritage.

The Future of San Basilio de Palenque

As San Basilio de Palenque steps into a new era of autonomy, its residents are hopeful about what the future holds. The town’s new status as a special municipality will bring dedicated funding and greater control over local governance, enabling the community to address long-standing issues such as infrastructure and waste management.

For many in San Basilio, this moment represents the fulfillment of a dream—a chance to build a future that honors the town’s past while embracing the possibilities of the present. “Previous municipal administrations have not understood what Palenque is, what it feels like to be Palenquero,” Bembele told Al Jazeera. “Through this recognition, we Palenqueros ourselves are the ones in charge, and we know our needs and how to manage the resources that will come our way.”

The town’s African roots are evident in every corner, from the murals that decorate its streets to the traditional customs and belief systems that continue to shape daily life. Palenqueros believe Africa to be their final resting place, and the funerary ritual Lumbalu—a ceremony involving traditional chants, music, and dancing—remains a vital part of the community’s cultural fabric.

San Basilio de Palenque’s recognition as an autonomous municipality is not just a political victory—it is a reaffirmation of the town’s identity and a step toward ensuring that its unique culture and heritage are preserved for future generations. As the town embarks on this new chapter, the legacy of Benkos Bioho and the spirit of resistance that he embodied continue to inspire the community.

Also read: Fresh Discoveries on Colombia’s Massive San José Shipwreck Treasures

“Today, [Bioho] should feel proud because we are still working and still fighting for the vindication of the rights of the entire Afro-Colombian community,” Bembele told Al Jazeera, a tattoo of Africa proudly displayed on his calf.

In the face of modern challenges, San Basilio de Palenque stands as a beacon of resilience and cultural pride, a testament to the enduring strength of a community that has fought for its freedom and identity for centuries.

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